skönhetsråd

THE

TOILET OF FLORA;
OR,
A COLLECTION
OF THE
MOST SIMPLE AND APPROVED
METHODS OF PREPARING

BATHS,		PERFUMES,
ESSENCES,		AND
POMATUMS,		SWEET-SCENTED
POWDERS,		WATERS.

WITH

RECEIPTS for Cosmetics of every Kind,
that can smooth and brighten the Skin, give
Force to Beauty, and take off the Appearance
of Old Age and Decay.

By Pierre-Joseph Buc'hoz

FOR THE USE OF THE LADIES.

 Vem kan väl motstå en bok som utlovar slät hy, och som motverkar åldrande och förfall‽  För det är precis vad Pierre-Joseph Buc'hozs bok The Toilet of Flora, från 1779, utlovar. 

Här får vi recepten på allt från himmelskt vatten till örtsnus.

Låt oss börja med rouge:

238. A Rouge for the Face.

Alkanet Root strikes a beautiful red when mixed with Oils or Pomatums. A Scarlet or Rose-coloured Ribband wetted with Water or Brandy, gives the Cheeks, if rubbed with it, a beautiful bloom that can hardly be distinguished from the natural colour. Others only use a Red Sponge, which tinges the cheeks of a fine carnation colour.

Den här metoden verkar mindre smärtsam än att nypa sig i kinderna som jag läst någonstans, ska var den enda acceptabla metoden för unga kvinnor att få rosiga kinder.

Och så var det, det där med slät hy, som är så eftertraktat — kanske skulle man börja sälja det här preparatet. Mina rynkor kan jag leva med, men ett tillskott i kassan vore inte så dumt!

237. A Secret to take away Wrinkles.

Heat an Iron Shovel red hot, throw on it some Powder of Myrrh, and receive the smoke on your face, covering the head with a napkin to prevent its being dissipated. Repeat this operation three times, then heat the Shovel again, and when fiery hot pour on it a mouthful of White Wine. Receive the vapour of the Wine also on your face, and repeat it three times. Continue this method every night and morning as long as you find occasion.

243. A Sweet-Scented Bag to wear in the Pocket.

Take thin Persian, and make it into little bags about four inches wide, in the form of an oblong square. Rub the inside lightly with a little Civet, then fill them with coarse powder a la Marechale, or any other odoriferous Powder you choose; to which add a few Cloves, with a little Yellow Sanders beaten small, and sew up the mouths of the bags.

Jag är den första att erkänna att de här metoderna är tidsödande — inte själva utförandet, men att lista ut vad det är för ingredienser man ska skaka fram. "Thin Persian" har jag gått bet på, det kan rimligtvis inte vara varken en persisk katt eller persianpäls, jag lutar åt att det måste vara något slags tyg som heter så. Att "civet" är sibetolja, säger mig inte särskilt mycket, men jag läser att det utvinns från sibetkattens doftkörtlar, som sitter vid analöppningen. Och hos Wikipedia lär jag mig att "Sibetkatter (Viverrinae) är en underfamilj i familjen viverrider. Dessa djur lever på marken i delar av Afrika och Asien och är jämförelsevis stora. De har oftast en gråaktig eller gulaktig päls med en mönstring av strimmor eller fläckar."

Så kommer jag till Marechale, och kan snabbt sortera bort både "Maréchal, Joseph, 1878–1944, belgisk teolog och filosof, medlem av Jesuitorden, verksam i Leuven" och olika vindistrikt — men kanske är det en rossort. Den här rosen heter nämligen Maréchal Davoust. 

204. Pomatum to make the Hair grow in a bald Part, and thicken the Hair.

Take Hen's Fat, Oil of Hempseed, and Honey, of each a quarter of a pound; melt them together in an earthen pipkin, and keep the mixture stirring with a wooden spatula, till cold. This pomatum, to obtain the desired effect, must be rubbed on the part eight days successively.

Spruckna läppar? Inga problem.

191. A Scarlet Lip-Salve.

Take Hog's Lard washed in Rose-water, half a pound; Red Roses and Damask Roses bruised, a quarter of a pound; knead them together and let them lie in that state two days. Then melt the Hog's Lard, and strain it from the Roses. Add a fresh quantity of the latter, knead them in the Hog's Lard, and let them lie together two days as before; then gently simmer the mixture in a vapour-bath. Press out the Lard, and keep it for use in the same manner as other Lipsalves.

Att lök ska hjälpa mot finnar har jag hört förut, så det här receptet är kanske värt att prova:

Beat a quantity of Houseleek in a marble mortar, squeeze out the Juice and clarify it. When you want to use it, pour a few drops of rectified Spirit on the Juice, and it will instantly turn milky. It is a very efficacious remedy for a pimpled face, and preserves the skin soft and smooth.

Pierre-Joseph Buc’hoz (1731–1807)   

Som om det inte är nog att boken är intressant, så verkar författaren att vara en synnerligen intressant och kunnig person. Han var läkare, jurist, naturforskar och dessutom en hejare på att avbilda växter och djur. Vad sägs om den här malvan? 

Och till slut det himmelska vattnet, som jag inte kan undanhålla er:

50. The Celestial Water.

Take the best Cinnamon, Nutmegs, Ginger, Zedoary, Galangals, and White-Pepper, of each an ounce; six Lemon-peels, pared thin; two handfuls of Damascene Grapes; as much Jujebs; a handful of Pith of Dwarf-Elder; four handfuls of Juniper-berries perfectly ripe; Fennel-Seeds, Flowers of Sweet Basil, St. John's-wort, Rosemary, Marjoram, Pennyroyal, Stechas, Musk Roses, Rue, Scabious, Centaury, Fumitory, and Agrimony, of each a handful; Spikenard, Aloes-Wood, Grains of Paradise, Calamus Aromaticus, Mace, Gum Olibanum, and Yellow Sanders, of each two ounces; Hepatic Aloes, fine Amber and Rhubarb, of each two drachms. All these drugs being procured good in their kind, beat in a mortar those that ought to be pulverized, and put the whole, thoroughly mixed together, into a large strong glass alembic; pouring as much genuine brandy upon them as will rise at least three fingers breadth above the ingredients. Then having well closed the mouth of the alembic, bury the vessel fifteen days in warm horse-dung, and afterwards distil the Tincture in balneo Mariæ, the water almost boiling hot. When you perceive the water in the receiver change its colour, instantly stop the process, and separate the phlegm from the spirit, by another distillation conducted in the same manner. The liquor thus obtained is the genuine Celestial Water. Note, when you perceive this second water begin to lose its transparency, and incline to a reddish colour, put it by in a strong glass bottle closely stopped, and dissolve in the residue half a pound of the best Treacle, with as much Venice Turpentine and fresh Oil of Almonds. Place the alembic in a sand heat, and urge the fire to the first degree, to have the genuine Balsamic Oil, which ought to be of the consistence of clarified Honey.

If a person rubs himself in the morning with this water on the forehead, eyelids, back of the head, and nape of the neck, it renders him quick and easy of conception, strengthens the memory, enlivens the spirits, and greatly comforts the sight. By putting a few drops with a bit of cotton up the nostrils, it becomes a sovereign cephalic, and cleanses the brain of all superfluous cold and catarrhal humours. If a table spoonful is drank every third day, it tends to preserve the body in vigour. It is an excellent remedy against asthmatic complaints, and corrects an offensive breath.